Women Designers Are Championing Pants (Press, 1 March 1988)

The article by Suzy Menkes in the London Independent, published on 1 March 1988, explores the complex relationship between women, trousers, and fashion over the past 50 years. Initially, trousers were introduced to high street fashion, and over the past two decades, they have become a staple in women's wardrobes, with a variety of styles including jeans, cords, leggings, and ski pants. Despite this acceptance in casual settings, the corporate world remains conservative; many employment agencies continue to advise women against wearing trousers to interviews, deeming them "too casual" or "too severe”, which can create a negative impression. The piece highlights a sense of irony, noting that many male fashion designers are behind the current trends that are phasing out trousers. In sharp contrast, women designers are standing up for the inclusion of trousers in women's fashion. Designer Katharine Hamnett criticises the trend of tight, restrictive skirts, pointing out that many male designers seem to envision women's clothing through a lens of what they would prefer women to wear. Menkes also references notable female designers like Sonia Rykiel and Donna Karan, who create clothing that reflects women's true styles and needs. With the launch of new collections, many of which feature trousers alongside more traditional items like skirts, there is a growing recognition of the desire for modern, functional clothing that still embraces femininity. For instance, designers like Agnes B from France focus on simplicity and beautifully tailored trousers, which resonate with the busy, modern woman while sidestepping overly extravagant designs. Nicole Farhi is cited as another influential designer who understands fine tailoring yet reinterprets those lines to suit the modern woman’s form, demonstrating that femininity can exist without excessive frills. Menkes points out the evolution of trouser designs: while classic pleat-front trousers persist, newer styles with high waists and wide legs are emerging, blurring the lines between comfort and elegance in women’s wear. The article captures a pivotal moment in women's fashion, highlighting the ongoing struggle between traditional expectations and contemporary needs. The narrative suggests that while trousers are becoming increasingly accepted, cultural stereotypes and biases continue to shape perceptions around women’s clothing choices, especially in the professional realm.

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