Oysters: The Ugly Little Devils (Press, 1 April 1986)
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Summary: Oysters: The Ugly Little Devils (Press, 1 April 1986)
In a piece titled "Food and Fable," David Burton explores the culinary and cultural significance of oysters, particularly the Bluff oyster, which is considered one of the best in the world and is unique to New Zealand. Despite their unappealing slimy appearance, oysters have been celebrated by writers and gourmets alike for their rich, briny taste and texture. Burton cites Ernest Hemingway, who found joy and inspiration in eating oysters, suggesting they have an almost magical ability to elevate one's mood. Bluff oysters, scientifically known as Tiostea luteria, take six to seven years to grow to a legal consumption size and have a fascinating reproductive cycle. They typically start life as males before transitioning to females as they mature, with females capable of producing millions of larvae each season. However, only a small fraction of these larvae survive due to various natural predators, including rays, snappers, starfish, and the invasive oyster borer. Burton shares an amusing anecdote about an oyster that unexpectedly closed on a mouse, showcasing the creature's surprising defences despite its vulnerability. He discusses the common culinary belief that oysters should be consumed raw, highlighting the ideal pairing of fresh oysters with lemon juice and pepper. However, he acknowledges that transportation issues have affected the availability of truly fresh oysters, leading him to explore cooking methods. He provides a recipe reminiscent of a classic New Orleans dish called "La Mediatrice," which involves preparing oysters with French bread, garlic butter, and a creamy mayonnaise-based topping, then baking the dish until warm and inviting. This preparation reflects the widespread appeal of oysters beyond their raw form and showcases their versatility in various culinary contexts. Overall, Burton's exploration serves not only to celebrate the oyster but also to emphasise its role in New Zealand's food culture and gastronomy.
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