Who’s Who In A Skirt These Days? (Press, 29 March 1984)

In a recent exploration of fashion trends in London, journalist Sally Brampton observed a noticeable shift in gender norms and clothing styles, especially among young men. A striking example was spotted in Piccadilly—a young man donned a heavy black leather jacket adorned with metal studs, spiked chains, and a bold black hairstyle, but what stood out most was his choice of a long skirt instead of the typical black leather trousers or bondage pants associated with his look. This incident points to a growing acceptance of men wearing skirts, reflecting an evolving understanding of comfort and self-expression in fashion. Brampton noted a similar instance at a nightclub, where a male acquaintance wore a ribbed wool skirt. He identified his clothing choice as a personal comfort preference rather than a transvestite statement, reminiscent of the justifications women once made when adopting trousers. This trend, dubbed “gender bending,” has been more prominent in the realm of music, with figures like Boy George, Marilyn, and Annie Lennox of Eurythmics influencing popular culture through androgynous styles. Eying broader societal shifts, Brampton mentioned that young people are increasingly mixing traditional gendered clothing elements. This style manifests in oversized jackets, loose shirts, and trousers cinched at the waist, leading to what she describes as a "genderless army of youth." These trends have roots in past fashion rebellions, and they are being echoed by designers who align their collections with evolving social attitudes without directly copying street style. One notable example of this merger between street fashion and high fashion is seen in the punk aesthetic, which has been tailored for runway presentations with luxury elements. Designer Giorgio Armani has tapped into the growing acceptance of androgyny, creating men’s suits designed for women. Meanwhile, Japanese designer Issey Miyake has pioneered a gender-neutral approach, making unstructured clothing that appeals to both sexes equally. With the opening of his new store, Plantation, Miyake's designs are marketed without distinction to gender. Additionally, designer Wendy Dagworthy has launched a men’s collection characterized by relaxed fits similar to her women's line, embodying comfort and versatility. Through these examples, Brampton illustrates a significant transition in fashion, where traditional gender roles in clothing are increasingly blurred. The evolution reflects a wider cultural shift toward individual expression and comfort, marking a progressive moment in fashion history as both men and women embrace a more fluid approach to dressing.

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