Rise And Fall Of The Male Earring (Press, 8 July 1983)

In a 1983 article for the London “Observer,” David Thomas explores the evolving trends of male decoration, particularly focusing on the earring’s transition from a niche accessory to a staple of masculinity in sports and fashion. The piece begins by referencing Elton John, who was spotted wearing a diamond earring whilst watching a football match in Shanghai. Similarly, Charlie Nicholas, a young footballer signing with Arsenal, also donned an earring, which Thomas suggests marks a shift in style within the football world. Historically, the article notes that male adornment was often limited to understated pieces, with earlier eras featuring more extravagant decorations worn by figures like Henry VIII and James I, who famously embraced ostentation. However, a Puritan ethic was prevalent for a time, discouraging men from wearing decorations. This attitude began to change with the Restoration and the Enlightenment, yet a return to simplicity occurred under the influence of Beau Brummel. The article discusses the resurgence of male jewellery in the 1960s, coinciding with the freedom of the hippie movement, where male earrings became socially acceptable. Trends shifted through the decades, from the medallion styles of the 1970s to the glam rock era, influencing young men's fashion choices. By the 1980s, the fashion landscape has diversified further, with remarks about the punk style causing a reversion to tribal forms of decoration. Thomas turns to contemporary fashion experts including Thom O’Dwyer and Phillippa Gimlette for insights on the current state of men's adornment. O’Dwyer describes that while earrings are now established, they are not deemed fashionable, shifting the focus to other accessories like tie-bars. Gimlette notes a strict avoidance of male models with pierced ears in “Vogue” menswear features, emphasising a preference for classic styles over trendy jewellery. Ultimately, the article illustrates the complex and changing nature of male fashion and decoration, with earrings reflected as a symbol of varying forms of masculinity throughout history. In summary, male adornments have transitioned from the flamboyance of historical figures to the restrained choices preferred in contemporary fashion circles, embodying the tensions between tradition and modernity in male style.

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