Parisian Leads Male Fashion Revolution (Press, 21 February 1969)

On 21 February 1969, an article by Elizabeth Peer explored the evolving landscape of men's fashion, focusing significantly on designer Pierre Cardin. The piece discusses the emergence of a new style for the American male, presenting a stark departure from traditional norms, described in humorous and dramatic terms as resembling someone who has just exited a women's dormitory. Cardin, a prominent Parisian couturier, reflects on the uninspiring state of men’s clothing, stating he was "bored" with the outdated, boxy looks commonly seen in male attire. He criticises features such as excessive padding and poorly tailored cuts, describing them as "monstrous." Instead, he promotes a more elegant and stylised design with a focus on a slender silhouette, which involves high-waisted jackets, natural shoulders, and low collars that enhance the overall appearance of the male figure. The article notes that Cardin's designs have gained attention and are shaping men's fashion trends in the United States. Cardin's ready-to-wear suits are priced around $200, but he also offers more extravagant items like Indian silk lounging pajamas for $120 and yak-fur coats costing $600, complete with industrial zippers. His philosophy revolves around the notion that clothing should be appropriate for the occasion, arguing that wearing sports attire in urban settings is "grotesque." Peer provides a brief background on Cardin, describing his humble beginnings in Lyons, France, as the son of Italian immigrants. His early interest in fashion was evident when he played with dolls and designed clothes for them. Cardin began his career working with renowned couturiers such as Paquin and Schiaparelli, eventually teaming up with Christian Dior before launching his own brand in 1953. The initial reception to his male clothing line was lukewarm, particularly for his colourful neckties that were deemed vulgar at the time. However, the popularity of British bands like the Beatles and the Rolling Stones eventually paved the way for a revival of such styles. As Cardin's business expanded, he introduced more innovative designs during the 1960s, including fitted shirts and collarless jackets. As of that year, he reports that two-thirds of his sales originate from men's fashion, and he prides himself on creating practical clothing accessible to everyday men. Looking ahead, Cardin predicts significant changes in men's fashion, including the decline of neckties and a shift towards more revealing styles. He is also working on a "cosmonaut suit," a futuristic design aimed at revolutionising male apparel. Concluding the article, Cardin's confidence shines through as he recalls the initial skepticism toward his fitted shirts and suggests that future trends will render his current designs commonplace.

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